You require precision from your miter saw and this device conveys. The Heavy Duty Single-Bevel Compound Miter Saw’s exact miter framework and creative machined base wall configuration convey long haul wall straightness by giving extra backing. This miter saw is controlled by a 15-Amp engine and comes furnished with a 12 in. carbide cutting edge that twists at 4000 RPM. Some accessories included are a carbide blade, dust bag, for catching dust and lessening scattered dirts,blade wrench and comfortable side handles in the base. Miter detent override that allows you to override the miter stops and adjust to the desired setting without the saw slipping into the miter detents. It also features an adjustable stainless steel miter detent plate with 11 positive stops. It is convenient and safe to use because of its tall sliding fences that support crown moulding up to 5-1/4 in. nested and base moulding up to 6-1/2 in. vertically against the fence while easily sliding out of the way for bevel cuts. This miter saw has a crosscut capacity up to 2×8 in. dimensional lumber and also bevels to the left up to 48° and to the right up to 3°, with positive stops at 0°, 45° and 33.9° for cutting crown moulding laying flat. This miter saw is very handy. You can carry it anywhere you want because it is a lightweight saw design at 42 lbs. The cam lock miter handle with miter detent override that disposes of the need to bend the handle to secure on the edge. This miter saw can deliver versatility at most common bevel angles because of its 4 hardened steel bevel stops at 0°, 33.9°, 45° and 48°.
- 15 Amp motor, 4,000 rpm delivers extended power and durability
- Adjustable stainless steel miter detent plate with 11 positive stops improves productivity and ensures cutting
- Precise miter system and machined base fence support optimize cutting accuracy
- Tall sliding fence supports crown molding up to 5-1/4-inch nested and base molding up to 6-1/2-inch vertically against the fence while easily sliding out of the way for bevel cuts
- Bevels 0 degree-48 degree to the left and 0 degree-3 degree to the right for increased capacity; 0 degree-50 degree left and right miter capacity for greater versatility
I have to admit,
I’ve always been one of those pro carpenters that thought DeWalt saws looked and worked cheaply. Like many of you, I have used every chop saw and dual compound miter saw imaginable. Years later I became a woodshop teacher. When I started, the old teacher before me had an nice new Makita and good old Hitachi stuffed in the back tool storage room and this saw set up prominently out on the shop floor. I decided to leave it there and see what would happen over the course of the school year.
I watched this saw get day in and day out abuse from students who cut too fast, started the saw while touching the work, let the saw run too long, let the saw snap back to its upright position, chopped wood not against the fence, never cleaned the blade or used wicked dull blades all day. I had students using pine and the saw covered in sap that hardened to amber. (hey I can hear you judging me fellas, I had thirty-two inner city kids in these classes [no injuries-knock on wood]. One week I had students blazing away for hours chopping hickory and pecan, leaving the saw hot to the touch.
Long story short: you couldn’t find a better field testing environment than a high school shop class. Despite this merciless abuse, this saw cut perfectly accurate. It is loud, and the brake doesn’t like the kind of resharpened heavy blades I use, but nonetheless, after school, I made fine furniture with this same saw. I made tight perfect miters with it It could chop cleanly through 12/4 rock maple full of nails on a dull blade (I know all of you are wincing, that’s why I used a beater blade)
I used it to chop and cut shoulders on giant 5 in dovetails in 8/4 Bubinga. or trimming off a 64th of the same without it drifting away…always leaving my work dead on 90 degrees
I’m not a professional, I’m just a homeowner who appreciates quality tools, but it seems they got all the details right on this saw. Miter and bevel were perfectly aligned out of the box, which I checked with my triangle and with some test cuts. Getting it out of the box was easy too, thanks to the carrying handle on the saw head which is very solid and close to the center of balance. (Usually with big items like this you have to figure out how to get your hands underneath it and then hold the box down while you get it out.) The locking pin which keeps the saw head down when you’re carrying it can be slid in and out easily but has no problem supporting the weight, while the spring that raises the head prevents the pin from sliding out accidentally. There are also good hand holds on each side of the base with rounded edges so they don’t dig into your hands.
Bevel stops at 0 and 45 degrees make it easy to switch between common angles, but can be slid back after loosening a screw to allow a few more degrees either way when you need to compensate for other cuts that were a little off (made by someone else, of course). There’s also a flip-out stop for 33.9 degree bevel which is also solidly made. The bevel locking knob-thing is nice and big, making it easy to grip and turn. The adjustable fence can be quickly adjusted with a single knob, but is still very sturdy when tightened down.
Miter adjustment is rock solid. The quick detents have no wiggle room at all, and the detent override makes it easy to adjust to any angle. The simple push-down miter lock is easy to use, and once locked I was unable to force it slip to either side
Understanding Compound Miter Saw
Knowing your product is very important so you will know hot to use and operate it. This DEWALT DW715 is truly amazing.
Important Characteristics of Miter Saw
Miter Saws are utilized to make precise point slices through long bits of material. For occupations like including trim in a room or building drawers, boxes or cabinet they are a vital bit of hardware.
• Sizes – The most common sizes are 8 1/2in, 10in, and 12in (size refers to the blade diameter). Although larger sizes exist too. Larger sizes can make larger cuts, smaller sizes make more accurate cuts on smaller pieces.
• Bevel Stops (Positive Stops) – factory set grooves that make it easy to adjust the saw to common angles (e.g. 45 degrees, 30 degrees, etc.) Saws should have an override that allows the operator to ignore the stops.
• Scales – the markings which show the angle of the saw. The ease of getting accurate angle setups vary across saws. Some scales must be used by looking at the markings from a specific angle.
• Blade Guards – all miter saws sold in the US have self-retracting blade guards to protect the operator from injury.
• Electric Brakes – systems to stop the saw blade quickly once the trigger is released. The idea is that this can help prevent operator injury.
• Dust Collection Systems – most saws have either a dust collection bag or a port for connecting to a shopvac.
• Table Extensions – pieces that attach to the side of the table for cutting large pieces of material. Usually third-party supports work better.
• Fences – the backstop which the materials are held against for cutting. Compare the surface quality and the ability to easily adjust its position.
• Power – 10 to 15 amp motors, typically running at around 4,000 rpms
• Laser – some saws have a laser guide to show where the cut will start. Some saws have dual laser systems which show the beginning and end of the cut.
• Warranties – typically range from 1 to 3 years.
• Power Source – corded versus cordless. While cordless saws are available, they are only appropriate for very specific situations (e.g. where access to power is unavailable or use is very light).
Safety Precautions For Miter Saw
A power miter saw is one of the best tools to cut tight-fitting joints on all kinds of moldings: window and door trim, baseboard and crowns. With a power miter saw and a sharp saw blade, it’s easy to fine-tune a joint for a perfect fit by slightly adjusting the angle or trimming off a hair’s width.
Be prepared for a startling experience the first time you squeeze the switch on a power miter saw. The saw will jerk and whine as the blade gets up to speed. Listen for the blade to reach top speed before starting your cut. Then lower the blade slowly and steadily through the board until the cut is complete. Hold the saw carriage down in this position and release the switch, allowing the blade to come to a complete stop before raising it. Maintain a firm grip on the workpiece until the blade stops spinning.
Aligning the blade with the cutting mark on your workpiece gets easier with practice. Photo 1 shows how. Cut a little beyond the line, leaving extra length on your workpiece. Test the fit. Then adjust the miter saw angle if necessary (Photo 2) and slice off a little more. Keep a firm grip on the workpiece (with your hand a good 6 in. away from the blade) to prevent it from being pushed aside by the blade. For greater accuracy, clamp the workpiece.